Two of the world’s most-used seasonings come together literally, figuratively and (most importantly) deliciously at Modesto’s El Bistro by Salt and Pepper.
The new west Modesto restaurant on Carpenter Road comes from a pair of restaurant and catering veterans with more than a decade’s experience serving Central Valley diners. Married team Judith Avila and Jose Luna are behind Salt and Pepper, a local food business that includes catering and taquerias.
The couple now have added a bistro and bakery to that list with the Modesto site in a former longtime bakery space at Carpenter and Kansas Avenue. Before sitting vacant for about two years, the site was home first to Hanna’s and then to Frost bakeries. The retail complex includes Harbor Freight Tools and a Dutch Bros Coffee kiosk.
Now Avila and Luna have transformed the location into two distinct yet complementary attached spaces with a bakery side and a bistro side. The sections also are distinguished by their color tones — white for the bakery and black for the bistro, intentionally like their namesake seasonings.
“We had dreamed about an open concept where all your cravings are in the same place,” said Ana Espinoza, who co-manages the restaurant with her husband, Israel Espinoza. “That way, each time you come back, you can get something different. Something sweet, something savory, some coffee, some Latin flair, some French, some Italian, Mexican. It’s all here.”
Avila and Luna started their original catering company Salt & Pepper in 2012 and have operated out of Patterson since. Then in 2020, they opened two Salt & Pepper restaurants, one in Patterson on El Circulo Avenue and and the other in Turlock on North Tegner Road.
The opportunity to open El Bistro came suddenly, Israel Espinoza said, when another bakery’s plans for opening in the space fell through. He said they realized it would make a great place for their dream bistro. The project came together quickly, taking only about two months thanks to its large and intact preexisting kitchen.
El Bistro’s two-sided approach to dining means the first choice you make is where to sit: the bakery-cafe side or the bistro-bar side which both serve the same menu.
In the bakery-cafe, you’ll find a host of hot or cold espresso drinks, teas and bakery items, all made in house. A wood-framed glass pastry case fills the back wall, offering about 15 different delights from cookies and sweet rolls, scones and cheesecakes to whole loaves of bread, dinner rolls and more.
The bakery makes all of the bread for the bistro side, as well, used in everything from sandwiches to French toast. The kitchen also makes all the tortillas, chips and sauces from scratch. You’ll find breakfast, brunch and lunch items served all day in the bistro.
Breakfast/brunch fare includes more than a dozen selections, including several towering French toast varieties (from Italian-inspired tiramisu to Nutella-stuffed churro and Mexican dulce de leche, which run $19 to $23). Lunch spans fusion specialties like the carnitas biscuit (carnitas with refried beans, avocado, coleslaw and pickled jalapenos on a homemade biscuit) to the bacon-birria burger (a half-pound beef patty with birria, chorizo, American cheese, bacon and the fixings), ranging from $17 to $23.
The restaurant’s attention to detail extends beyond just its decor. Food is served on an assortment of aesthetically pleasing plates, and care is taken with plating. Don’t be surprised when most of the customers whip out their phones to snap pictures of the beautiful creations coming out of the kitchen.
Luckily for El Bistro customers, it’s not all about the aesthetic. Thanks to scratch-making so many ingredients and offerings, the results are flavorful and fresh. Those with dietary restrictions should feel included as well, thanks to the various gluten-free, vegan and keto options. And the bistro also serves a selection of beer, California wines, champagne and, yes, of course, mimosas.
West side residents already have found, and started returning to, the eatery. Those include Tim Mieher, who called the carnitas biscuit he ate at the bistro recently “one of the best meals I’ve had in Modesto ever.” He was thrilled to have another quality dining option west of Highway 99. The area has far fewer full-service restaurants than other parts of the city, like downtown and north Modesto.
“It’s great to have a new restaurant to satisfy and represent the west side, which often gets a bad rap,” Mieher said. “People over here will support a good place, and it’s always nice to not have to go over the bridge (across Highway 99) for something to eat.”
El Bistro by Salt and Pepper, at 901 N. Carpenter Road, is open 6 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday to Saturday, closed Sunday. For more information, call 209-622-0419 or visit www.instagram.com/elbistrobysaltandpepper.
This story was originally published April 17, 2023, 6:00 AM.